Varasano's Pizza Method

Pizza Napoletana Using the Jeff Varasano’s Method

http://www.varasanos.com/PizzaRecipe.htm

On Measurements: If you don’t have one, invest in a cheap kitchen scale for weight.  It’s actually easier to deal with than trying to measure cups. You can get a great one for under $20.

The following measurements are my (meaning Eric, as opposed to Jeff Varasano’s) current Distribution based off of Serious Eats New York Style Pizza recipe at:

http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2010/10/new-york-style-pizza.html

Possible Toppings:

Calabrian Chilies, Buffalo Mozzarella, Basil

New York Style Pizza Dough

This has been adjusted to yield about 40 oz. of dough which is enough to make four 10 oz. dough balls. This is a 62% hydration that can be adjusted to your needs. (Oz. water / Oz. flour) * 100 = 62.50

Ingredients:

• 24 oz. Bread Flour
• 15 oz. Filtered Water (ice cold bottled water)
• 2 teaspoons Kosher Salt
• 1 teaspoons Yeast (whatever you have.. instant, bread maker, dry, etc)

Summarized Method:

Abbreviated Procedure (see notes included in procedure below):

·         COMBINE - ingredients into the mixer except only 75% flour. Everything room temp

·         MIX - on lowest speed for 1 – 2 min until completely blended.

·         REST - Cover and Let it rest for 20 minutes.

·         MIX - Start Mixing on Low speed for 8 minutes. 5 minutes into it start adding flour gradually.

·         REST - Pour out onto a floured surface and let it rest for 15 – 20 minutes.

·         PORTION - into balls with a scrapper and scale. (I do 10 oz. dough balls for about a 12 inch pizza)

·         STORE - the dough in individual 5 cup Glad plastic containers as you see below.

·         REST/REFERIGERATE - Let them rest another 10 minutes, then put them in the Fridge for 1-6 days.

·         REMOVE - Take dough out of the fridge 80 min prior to cook.

·         SHAPE - Put flour in a bowl and dunk the dough lightly, getting all sides including the edge, then move it to the granite counter. I put just a tiny amount on the peel, which I spread evenly with my hands

Additional Notes & Details

Varasano’s Ingredient Distribution

This is Jeff Varasano’s ingredient distribution table. Jeff is the one who defines the procedure above.  There is a very detailed version of this on his page at http://www.varasanos.com/PizzaRecipe.htm

Ingredient	1 Pie	3 Pies	5 Pies	Baker's %	Grams Per Liter of Water
Filtered Water	110.00	330.00	550.00	65.50%	1,000
King Arthur Bread flour, or Caputo Pizzeria flour	168.00	510.00	850.00	100.00%	1,527
Kosher or Sea Salt	6.00	18.00	30.00	3.50%	55
Sourdough yeast culture (as a battery poolish)	15.00	45.00	60.00	9.00%	136
Instant Dry yeast - Optional	0.50	1.50	2.50	0.25%	4.50
Total	299.50

Dough Preparation Procedure with Additional (very important) Notes:

·         COMBINE - ingredients into the mixer except only 75% flour. Everything room temp

·         MIX - on lowest speed for 1 – 2 min until completely blended.

o   At this stage you should have a mix that is drier than a batter, but wetter  than a dough. Closer to batter probably.

·         REST - Cover and Let it rest for 20 minutes.

·         MIX - Start Mixing on Low speed for 8 minutes. 5 minutes into it start adding flour gradually.

o   NOTE: Even if the dough is very sticky - that is it does not have enough flour in it to form a ball and it is still halfway between a batter and a dough - it is still working. This is where MOST of the kneading occurs.

o   The hook should look like its going through the dough, and not pushing the dough around.  It should be that wet until nearly the end.

o   After the first 6-8 minutes increase the speed of the mixer slightly. I never go higher than 1/3 of the dial on my mixer.

o   At some point during this process the dough should be getting much firmer and should form more of a ball.  Mix another minute or so a this stage  You may find that the dough is sticking to the roller /hook and not really working too much at this point.

o   One of the best ways to see how your dough is doing is to sprinkle a little flour on in and just feel it. It should feel baby bottom soft. If you don't sprinkle flour it will just feel sticky and not look smooth. But sprinkle a tiny bit of flour and now its soft and smooth. This is what you want.

·         REST - Pour out onto a floured surface and let it rest for 15 – 20 minutes.

o   It almost pours out (with a little push from a spatula).

o   Sprinkle a little bit of flour on the mass and knead it by hand for 30 seconds, just to reshape it.

·         PORTION - into balls with a scrapper and scale. (I do 10 oz. dough balls for about a 12 inch pizza)

·         STORE - the dough in individual 5 cup Glad plastic containers as you see below.

o   I wipe them with an oiled paper towel - super thin coating.

·         REST/REFERIGERATE - Let them rest another 10 minutes, then put them in the Fridge for 1-6 days.

o   Most recipes say that the dough should double in size. This is WAY too much. In total the dough should expand by about 50% in volume.

o   You want bubbles on the way up.  If the dough is risen high, the bubbles are big and the dough will have a weaker structure and will collapse when heat creates steam.

o   The lightest crust will come from a wet dough (wet = a lot of steam), with a modest amount of rise (bubbles formed, but small and strong). Some people start with a warm rise for 6 hours or so, and then move the dough to the fridge. I'm not a huge fan of this method. Once the bubbles are formed, I don't want the dough to get cold and have the bubbles shrink. This weakens their structure. What you want is a steady slow rise, with no reversals. Always expanding, just very, very slowly.

·         REMOVE - Take dough out of the fridge 80 min prior to cook.

o   I look at my dough a few hours before bake time and I make an assessment. If the dough has not risen much in the fridge I will take it out earlier than 80 minutes. If it's risen too much, I leave it in the fridge till a few minutes before bake. It really takes a good eye.

o   The softer the dough, the faster the rise. It's simply easier for small amounts of carbon dioxide to push up on a softer dough. If the dough falls a little after rising, you've waited too long and you will find it's past it's prime. Ideally you should use it well before it's at it's peak. This takes experience. You are better off working with a dough that is under risen, than over risen.

·         SHAPE - Put flour in a bowl and dunk the dough lightly, getting all sides including the edge, then move it to the granite counter. I put just a tiny amount on the peel, which I spread evenly with my hands

o   Build a little rim for yourself with your fingers,. then spread the dough.

o   Never use a rolling pin or knead the dough or man handle it. You are just popping the bubbles and will have a flat dough.

o   You can spread the dough a bit at a time. Do it half way, then wait 10-15 seconds, then spread a little more, then a little more. Be gentle with it.