Pizza Napoletana Using the Jeff Varasano’s Method
On Measurements: If you don’t have one, invest in a cheap
kitchen scale for weight. It’s actually
easier to deal with than trying to measure cups. You can get a great one for
under $20.
The following measurements are my (meaning Eric, as opposed
to Jeff Varasano’s) current Distribution based off of Serious Eats New York
Style Pizza recipe at:
http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2010/10/new-york-style-pizza.html
http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2010/10/new-york-style-pizza.html
Possible Toppings:
Calabrian Chilies, Buffalo Mozzarella, BasilNew York Style Pizza Dough
This has been adjusted to yield about 40 oz. of dough which
is enough to make four 10 oz. dough balls. This is a 62% hydration that can be
adjusted to your needs. (Oz. water / Oz. flour) * 100 = 62.50
Ingredients:
- 24 oz. Bread Flour
- 15 oz. Filtered Water (ice cold bottled water)
- 2 teaspoons Kosher Salt
- 1 teaspoons Yeast (whatever you have.. instant, bread maker, dry, etc)
Summarized Method:
Abbreviated Procedure (see notes included in procedure below):
·
COMBINE - ingredients into the mixer except only
75% flour. Everything room temp
·
MIX - on lowest speed for 1 – 2 min until
completely blended.
·
REST - Cover and Let it rest for 20 minutes.
·
MIX - Start Mixing on Low speed for 8 minutes. 5
minutes into it start adding flour gradually.
·
REST - Pour out onto a floured surface and let
it rest for 15 – 20 minutes.
·
PORTION - into balls with a scrapper and scale.
(I do 10 oz. dough balls for about a 12 inch pizza)
·
STORE - the dough in individual 5 cup Glad
plastic containers as you see below.
·
REST/REFERIGERATE - Let them rest another 10
minutes, then put them in the Fridge for 1-6 days.
·
REMOVE - Take dough out of the fridge 80 min
prior to cook.
·
SHAPE - Put flour in a bowl and dunk the dough
lightly, getting all sides including the edge, then move it to the granite
counter. I put just a tiny amount on the peel, which I spread evenly with my
hands
Additional Notes & Details
Varasano’s Ingredient Distribution
This is Jeff Varasano’s ingredient distribution table. Jeff
is the one who defines the procedure above.
There is a very detailed version of this on his page at http://www.varasanos.com/PizzaRecipe.htm
Ingredient
|
1 Pie
|
3 Pies
|
5 Pies
|
Baker's %
|
Grams Per Liter of Water
|
Filtered
Water
|
110.00
|
330.00
|
550.00
|
65.50%
|
1,000
|
King
Arthur Bread flour, or Caputo Pizzeria flour
|
168.00
|
510.00
|
850.00
|
100.00%
|
1,527
|
Kosher
or Sea Salt
|
6.00
|
18.00
|
30.00
|
3.50%
|
55
|
Sourdough
yeast culture (as a battery poolish)
|
15.00
|
45.00
|
60.00
|
9.00%
|
136
|
Instant Dry yeast
- Optional
|
0.50
|
1.50
|
2.50
|
0.25%
|
4.50
|
Total
|
299.50
|
Dough Preparation Procedure with Additional (very important) Notes:
·
COMBINE - ingredients into the mixer except only
75% flour. Everything room temp
·
MIX - on lowest speed for 1 – 2 min until
completely blended.
o At
this stage you should have a mix that is drier than a batter, but wetter than a dough. Closer to batter probably.
·
REST - Cover and Let it rest for 20 minutes.
·
MIX - Start Mixing on Low speed for 8 minutes. 5
minutes into it start adding flour gradually.
o NOTE:
Even if the dough is very sticky - that is it does not have enough flour in it
to form a ball and it is still halfway between a batter and a dough - it is
still working. This is where MOST of the kneading occurs.
o The
hook should look like its going through the dough, and not pushing the dough
around. It should be that wet until
nearly the end.
o After
the first 6-8 minutes increase the speed of the mixer slightly. I never go
higher than 1/3 of the dial on my mixer.
o At
some point during this process the dough should be getting much firmer and
should form more of a ball. Mix another
minute or so a this stage You may find
that the dough is sticking to the roller /hook and not really working too much
at this point.
o One
of the best ways to see how your dough is doing is to sprinkle a little flour
on in and just feel it. It should feel baby bottom soft. If you don't sprinkle
flour it will just feel sticky and not look smooth. But sprinkle a tiny bit of
flour and now its soft and smooth. This is what you want.
·
REST - Pour out onto a floured surface and let
it rest for 15 – 20 minutes.
o It
almost pours out (with a little push from a spatula).
o Sprinkle
a little bit of flour on the mass and knead it by hand for 30 seconds, just to
reshape it.
·
PORTION - into balls with a scrapper and scale.
(I do 10 oz. dough balls for about a 12 inch pizza)
·
STORE - the dough in individual 5 cup Glad
plastic containers as you see below.
o I
wipe them with an oiled paper towel - super thin coating.
·
REST/REFERIGERATE - Let them rest another 10
minutes, then put them in the Fridge for 1-6 days.
o Most
recipes say that the dough should double in size. This is WAY too much. In
total the dough should expand by about 50% in volume.
o You
want bubbles on the way up. If the dough
is risen high, the bubbles are big and the dough will have a weaker structure
and will collapse when heat creates steam.
o The
lightest crust will come from a wet dough (wet = a lot of steam), with a modest
amount of rise (bubbles formed, but small and strong). Some people start with a
warm rise for 6 hours or so, and then move the dough to the fridge. I'm not a
huge fan of this method. Once the bubbles are formed, I don't want the dough to
get cold and have the bubbles shrink. This weakens their structure. What you
want is a steady slow rise, with no reversals. Always expanding, just very,
very slowly.
·
REMOVE - Take dough out of the fridge 80 min
prior to cook.
o I
look at my dough a few hours before bake time and I make an assessment. If the
dough has not risen much in the fridge I will take it out earlier than 80
minutes. If it's risen too much, I leave it in the fridge till a few minutes
before bake. It really takes a good eye.
o The
softer the dough, the faster the rise. It's simply easier for small amounts of
carbon dioxide to push up on a softer dough. If the dough falls a little after
rising, you've waited too long and you will find it's past it's prime. Ideally
you should use it well before it's at it's peak. This takes experience. You are
better off working with a dough that is under risen, than over risen.
·
SHAPE - Put flour in a bowl and dunk the dough
lightly, getting all sides including the edge, then move it to the granite
counter. I put just a tiny amount on the peel, which I spread evenly with my
hands
o Build
a little rim for yourself with your fingers,. then spread the dough.
o Never
use a rolling pin or knead the dough or man handle it. You are just popping the
bubbles and will have a flat dough.
o You
can spread the dough a bit at a time. Do it half way, then wait 10-15 seconds,
then spread a little more, then a little more. Be gentle with it.
